How to Buy a Suit: What Men’s Mags Won’t Tell You

To read what the men’s magazines say about it, you’d think buying a suit is like purchasing a car, warranting copious research, multiple store visits, the accompaniment of an experienced friend. And it can be like that -- if you want to spend thousands of dollars and look like a GQ photo shoot. But for most guys, it’s a much simpler proposition.

That said, there are a few essential pieces of know-how every first-time suit-buyer should have. To break it down for us, we spoke to David Alperin, a Brooklyn-based designer and owner of specialty men’s retailer Goose Barnacle, winner of the Best Menswear Award in New York Magazine’s 2011 Best of New York issue.

1. Pick Your Price
“I tell young people not to go for the cheapest suit,” says Alperin. “It’s not going to last, and in the long run you’ll get more out of something a little higher quality.” Alperin advises shopping at Club Monaco, J. Crew or Banana Republic, where you can find decent off-the-rack suits for $300 to $400 that won’t require too much tailoring.

2. Pick Your Color
“Everyone’s first suit should be a solid navy blue.” And after navy, Alperin suggests, gray. And then navy pinstripe and then gray pinstripe … and then you can start to experiment. Why all the navy and gray? Because they go with everything. And why navy first? Because it’s perceived to be the most professional. We don’t know why -- some things just are.

3. Pick Your Style
If you’re young, says Alperin, no pleats. “Pleats were designed for a heavier-set person, and they make you look a little frumpy.” Flat-front pants give a slimmer, cleaner look -- and who doesn’t want that? Cuffs are a personal decision, he adds, but “the rule of thumb is: if no pleats, no cuffs.”

As for jackets, either two-button or three-button is fine, but Alperin suggests sticking with the two-button option for your first suit -- mainly because there are more of them out there. “In terms of finding suits at everyday stores that are mid- to good quality, usually it’s going to have two buttons.”

4. Pick Your Weight
As with color, until you have a closet full of suits and can pick and choose at your whim, you want something that’s going to be wearable in as many situations -- and seasons -- as possible. That, according to Alperin, would be a mid-weight 100-percent wool or wool blend.

5. Find Your Fit
“The shoulder and jacket length should be as close to perfect as possible,” says Alperin. “Anything else can be fixed.” The shoulders should end where your shoulders end; if they’re hanging off the end, even a smidge, put the suit back on the rack and find another.

Next, check the length. “You should be able to cup your hand underneath the bottom of the jacket.” If you brought dad along, and he’s telling you to go to the tips of your fingers, ignore him. That was the rule in his day; the new rule, according to Alperin, is a more modern look. “It makes everyone look taller if your jacket is a little shorter.”

Now you can start to relax, because the tailor will handle the rest. If your pants are flat front, make sure they fit in the waist (that’s your waist, not your hips) and they’ll have a nice straight fit down to the break on your shoe. Have the tailor hem your pants so they bend right as they hit the shoe and don’t bunch up. The sleeves should be tailored so that your shirt cuffs show a quarter of an inch. If you bought the right shoulders and jacket length, says Alperin, that’s all the tailoring you’ll need to do.

6. Complete the Outfit
“A mistake a lot of men make is purchasing a suit without the rest of the outfit,” says Alperin. “Without the tie, the socks, the shoes, it’s nothing.” You’ll need a minimum of two shirts: one white, one light blue. If you find a white shirt you like, Alperin suggests buying a few of them. “Your suit will outlive all of your shirts.”

There’s only one rule for socks: they must be darker than your suit. If your suit is a very dark navy, you can even wear black socks. Ties, of course, can run the gamut, but if you’re not ready to experiment, just go solid. “A solid burgundy tie, a dark green tie, navy, gray … they all look good with a navy suit on either a white or light blue shirt.”

Finally, says Alperin, invest in a good pair of black shoes -- a typical men’s dress shoe like a Cole Haan lace-up -- and a black belt to match. Most important of all: Keep your shoes polished. “It makes the whole outfit, which a lot of men don’t realize.”

Photo: @iStockphoto.com/theprint

Business Casual on a Budget

So the dress code at your new job is “business casual,” and you’re thinking, “What the … ?” Don’t fret, at least not about your wardrobe. Business casual is less straightforward than a suit and tie, but it’s not rocket science. And if you’re smart about it, you can look as sharp as the next guy for a whole lot less.

While it depends on the kind of office in which you work, business casual typically means crisp, professional and sober. “You don't need a tie, per se, but we're not talking about sweatpants. Think of the overall look and make the pieces work together,” says Khurshid Begum, creative director for Modern Culture at Oved Apparel and a fashion industry veteran who's worked for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani. Here’s how to do it:

Step No. 1: See What You Have
Everyone owns jeans, and if you don't have a pair of dark, fitted denim, you should. If you work in a more creative environment, the same goes for a pair of simple black sneakers in either canvas or leather, like Converse Jack Purcells or Adidas Stan Smiths. You probably own a few long-sleeve button-up shirts and a pair of khaki pants as well. These are keepers. "The key here is to look polished, but not too formal. That means your things can’t look too worn-in. If you see yellowed armpits or frayed collars, replace the item," says Begum. For everything else, he says, get thee to a dry cleaner. “Get the wrinkles out and show up looking crisp."

Step No.2: Fill in the Gaps in Your Wardrobe
If you're on a budget, keep the colors basic; don't buy orange pants or green shirts, because you'll be limited in how you can put them together. Stick to blues, grays and beiges and you'll get more outfits out of the same group of clothes. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to pair every item you purchase with at least two other items. This is how you build upon your wardrobe rather than just buying more clothes.

Keep the following in mind as essentials: a nice belt, a good pair of leather dress shoes, a few pairs of khakis, a good sport coat, and several shirts (a couple of whites, a couple of blues and a couple of stripes to mix it up). Begum also recommends owning a half-dozen pairs of dark socks that come up to the calf. “The easiest way to look like an idiot is to show up in a great casual outfit and ruin it with white sweat socks," he says. If there’s still room in your budget, a couple of sweaters in different styles, while not necessary, can be useful extras: a cardigan that can be worn in place of a sport coat or under one if it's not too bulky, and a crew neck or v-neck or even sweater vest that can be worn in the same way.

Step No. 3: Put It All Together
You can wear a blue shirt and khakis twice in a week, but change it up the second time, maybe with that cardigan, or with a navy knit tie (another good extra if you have the budget). If you go with the tie, and you’re in the right work environment, you could also wear sneakers that day to balance out the look. Get the idea?

Step No. 4: Shop
Consignment shops, thrift stores and eBay are great if you genuinely enjoy shopping and have a gift for putting things together. If not, contemporary men’s brands like Banana Republic and J. Crew are good for inspiration even if they’re a bit out of your price range, because practically everything goes together already. Pick up a couple of basic outfits at either of those stores, or use them for ideas before you head to H&M or the Gap.

4 Style Extras to Make You Look Like a Rock Star

Photo Credit: Prince - Getty Images

From Brando to Johnny Depp, everyone loves a bad boy -- and who’s badder than a rock star?

With these style tips, you’ll pass muster in the office while letting the world know you were born to be wild. Keep in mind, though, there are a few general guidelines when it comes to rock ’n’ roll style:

  • The more broken-in the item, the more authentic it appears
  • Forget oversize fashion, and opt for a fit smaller than you’d normally wear
  • Don’t don it all at once, unless you want to be mistaken for The Food Network’s Guy Fieri

Biker Jacket
Good style is essentially about pairing traditional elements in a way that feels fresh. One way to mix it up: Take a casual item and add it to an otherwise dressy outfit -- like adding a biker jacket to your normal office attire. Not in place of a blazer, mind you, but as outerwear with edge. Nothing says “I’ve got a life outside the office” more than mixing a classic leather biker jacket with your khakis, oxford and tie. And since not everyone can pull off the belted biker jacket without appearing like a West Side Story cast member, opt for simplicity with fewer snaps and pockets. Begin by checking out the classic version from Schott (Classic Perfecto Leather Motorcycle Jacket, $520). My favorite is the pre-broken-in version (the Authentic Motorcycle Jacket, $2,300), available online from Jean Shop in New York City.

Raw Denim

There’s no shortage of denim options, and it’s impossible to rock without it. Those in the know, though, go for selvage, or raw, denim, the increasingly popular premium made from the edges of the fabric spool. Perhaps the greatest proponent is A.P.C., which can be thought of as a French Gap (check out its New Standard Jeans, $165). All-American J.Crew just launched its raw-denim line (484 Slim-fit Jean, $225) with an experiment: Employees wore the jeans for six months straight without washing them in order to create a custom look for each wearer. Purists claim it’s the only way to get the right look, and if you can commit, you’ll see why a real blue-jean baby wouldn’t have it any other way.

Leather Cuff

A thick leather wristband sends a few messages that a Timex doesn’t -- first, that you don’t need to know what time it is, and second, that you’re keeping up the long tradition of the outsider antihero (even if your version cost 75 bucks from a boutique in L.A.). The key to incorporating this into your look is to keep it casual. If you’re wearing a dress shirt, keep it untucked with the cuffs unbuttoned. Remember: The emblems of individuality work only when the whole outfit feels synced.

Bandanna

The most inexpensive item on our list may also be the most practical. A broken-in, bleached-out bandanna knotted around the neck can catch the sweat on a warm day, but it’s also the ultimate antifashion fashion statement. It’s rough and classic yet a casual embellishment that few dudes off a construction site are man enough to attempt. It’s versatile enough to be worn Axl Rose–style, keeping your hair off your face, or like a headband knotted in the back. The rule here is just not to wear more than one at a time; else you’ll be mistaken for a boy-bander.

The Cutting Edge 2010

When it comes to next year’s hottest haircut trends, getting out in front means looking backward to the past.



If you’re still sporting last year’s faux hawk or using gel to spike your hair into a perfect bed-head, we’ve got advice for you straight from a famous blues legend (and possibly your mom): Get a haircut and get a real job (at least you’ll have a better chance getting a real job if you get one of these do’s).

“Faux hawks and spikes are over,” says Kendall Ong, owner of Mane Attraction salon in Phoenix and a judge at the annual North American Hairstyling Awards. “Hair trends and clothing trends are always closely related,” he says, “and what we’re seeing in both worlds is a move away from angles and texture, back to a more streamlined and traditional look.”

Translation: Retro.

Shorty Maniace, a New York City master barber and instructor, agrees. “Hairstyles for men tend to bounce between the late ’50s and the early ’70s,” he says. “Right now, it’s all about the former.”

This means you’ll see a whole lot of shorter, shinier coifs and deep side-parts -- evoking a vibe of both businessman and beatnik.

While it’s obvious the trend is directly related to the popularity of certain era-specific TV shows and movies (who wouldn’t want to be impossibly cool Mad Men or bold and brazen Inglourious Basterds), experts also agree our current economic crunch may play a role. “Until we come out of this recession and get back on top of the world, haircuts are going to remain more mainstream and conservative,” says Maniace. “Businesses are looking for people who can represent them to make money, not make a personal statement.”

Need more direction? These looks will help you land the right part (pardon the pun) -- martinis optional.

Schoolboy

“This is the short and clean cut that pretty much defines the geek-chic look of the late ’50s and early ’60s,” says Ong. “It originated right along with ‘nerd herd’ fashion (think: tailored suits, tweed, pocket squares and skinny ties).” The hair itself is tight and tapered at the sides and back, and a little bit longer and fuller in the front. “It’s like a classic businessman cut with nice clean lines,” says Maniace, “but now people are mixing it up a little bit with a messier, dryer look.” The best product to use for this style is grooming putty. Adds Ong: “It offers a strong hold with a natural shine and you can use it to mold the hair so it looks really neat.”

Slicked-back Side Part

“Just like the schoolboy look, this one is tight and tapered on the sides,” says Ong, “but it’s shorter on top, with a deep sharp part on the side.” It’s the shiny and tidy look popular in the lean post-World War II days, when men were somber, serious and intent on looking completely pulled together.

“With the revival of this style, though,” notes Maniace, “we’re seeing less of a deep, combed-in part (when you force it to go left or right starting at the receding line at the forehead), and more of a natural part.” (If you’re not sure where that is, comb your hair back when it’s wet and push it forward from the back -- wherever it starts to split is your natural part.) “To achieve a really high shine, use a pomade,” offers Ong. “If you’re worried about it looking too greasy, try a water-based version.”

Fringe

Now for a real trip back in time: This style is also called the “Regency” because England’s King George IV first worked it during his reign as Prince Regent (1811-1820). It was the age of the “dandy,” when men traded in their lacy frills and wigs for crisp collars, finely tailored suits and longer, textured hairstyles. The look itself features hair that’s a bit longer, with everything brushed forward into the face and really heavy bangs that fall past the eyebrows, almost into the eyes. “It’s the polar opposite of the schoolboy look,” says Ong. “It’s rougher, making it a younger, hipper look.” For a style that’s a little more “lived in,” Ong suggests using grooming paste. “It offers a more pliable hold than putty.”

Bald Face

To go along with these hairstyles, the new year will see a lot less facial hair. “Everything is going to be more tailored and trim,” says Maniace. For the geek-chic beatnik look, he recommends an anchor beard -- a small chin beard grown into a point, accompanied by a pencil-thin mustache. But if you want to stay true to the retro look, stick to a nice, clean shave. “It’s a classic look that will always be in style,” says Maniace. “In terms of men choosing a clean shave over facial hair, it’s always going to be 60 percent in favor of the clean shave.”

The Most Stylish Video Game Characters

Improve more than your hand-eye coordination while playing video games by taking style cues from these (pixelated) leading men.



In the early days of interactive entertainment, video game characters' style was more of an afterthought. After all, when you're made up of a handful of blocky pixels, no one can really tell if you're wearing an Armani suit of a suit of armor.

In contrast, today's games include near-photo-realistic graphics, so your in-game avatar's wardrobe is impossible to miss. This gives gamers a whole new generation of style icons to emulate -- from sports stars to action heroes.

Of course, if you follow video game style trends blindly, you might end up wearing overalls and a red plumber’s cap -- so pick your icons carefully!

We asked stylists Jorge Ramon and Diane Davis of the Stylelist Web site to examine a lineup of the five most fashion-forward male characters from today’s hottest video games. Here’s who got the joysticks-up and why:

1. James Bond: “Quantum of Solace”
Double-oh-seven has been making tuxes look good for more than 40 years. This latest video game version in the James Bond franchise has him sporting a classic look.

Jorge Ramon: Black and white and kicking butt all over, you can never go wrong in a classic tuxedo. Tailoring is key for a well-fitted and dramatic look. Nothing is worse than an ill-fitting suit that is either too big or small for the guy in it. Do yourself a favor: Go to your local tailor -- some dry cleaners offer this service too. Also, have at least one navy suit (pinstripes are always stylish) and a gray suit -- these are wardrobe workhorses for guys.

Diane Davis: It's pretty hard to get more stylish than James Bond. Tom Ford dressed Daniel Craig for Quantum of Solace [and Craig was, in turn, digitally scanned for the game], and boy, do those suits sing. Don't be afraid to invest in classic suits and tailored shirts -- you really can wear those looks for many years.

2. Jin Kazama: “Tekken”
Workout gear doesn't have to look drab, as this Tekken” fighting game star proves. Known for his high kicks and acrobatic flips, Jin favors loose-fitting patterned track pants and a generous dose of hair product.

Ramon: Can you say B-U-F-F? Jin's shredded upper body is the perfect attention grabber that punctuates the gold embroidery on his traditional ying-yang inspired black-and-white flame pants. Black and white is a color combination that will never steer you wrong: A black suit and white shirt can work in many situations -- from boardroom (with a slick, square-bottom black tie) to date night (open collar). Just make sure these looks are fitted and your accessories (sorry, Jin, I’d skip the gold in this case) complement the overall look (i.e., good shoes and a belt are a must -- and keep them black!).

Davis: Jin is following a cardinal style rule and emphasizing his best asset: his ripped torso. This is not a look easy to replicate at home. But you might be able to find a few pairs of flaming pants that, when combined with the right haircut and some muscles, evoke the same general feeling.

3. Snow Villiers: “Final Fantasy”
A rebel with a cause, fighting the evil Sanctum in “Final Fantasy XIII” (yes, the 13th game in the series), we’re guessing Snow was named after his shock of platinum-blond hair (in sharp contrast to his fiery temper).

Ramon: A classic trench is a must in a well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Versatile and actually useful in the rain, this piece will look amazing over a suit; or with jeans, plaid shirt and a chunky sweater. If you want to get your rocker on, trench coats also come in black. 

Davis: Snow has definite cyberpunk appeal. His trench coat pulls together the entire look, and his studded belts are making a comeback from the 1980s right now. I am digging these two-tone combat boots -- they remind me of shoes I’ve seen in a designer’s fall 2009 lineup. I'm not sure you can get Snow's look off the shelf, but the classic trench is a must-have for every man. Even if you can't afford designer prices, look for quality details when you do buy a raincoat: topstitching, epaulets and straps at the wrists.

4. Leon Kennedy: “Resident Evil”
One of the mainstays of the long-running “Resident Evil” series, Leon Kennedy manages to look sharp even when blasting brain-hungry zombies. Part of his mojo comes from how he moves effortlessly from his police blues to Indiana Jones-style leather jackets (and honestly, part of it is that always-perfect hair).

Ramon: Right on trend, Leon’s look is strong, masculine and simple -- proving less is more. The monochromatic black puts the shearling jacket center stage. And don’t let the initial investment of a shearling jacket deter you from wearing a look that will serve you for many years to come. Keep it casual with jeans, layered tees and boots, or even dress trousers with a turtleneck and a dress shoe/boot. This jacket is manly but always fashionable, and the older it gets, the better it looks.

Davis: Leon makes cargo pants and camo look cool by pairing them with a classic leather jacket. He’s clearly dressed for his job and has the confidence to throw trends to the wind. A classic leather bomber can definitely lend any man panache. Just be sure to buy one made from soft but thick quality leather -- and no 1980s shoulder pads.

5. Tiger Woods: “Tiger Woods PGA Tour”
If millions of fans were watching your every move under the bright midday sun, you'd be pretty careful about how you dressed too. Not everyone can pull off the classic polo-shirt-and-cap look, but Tiger makes it look effortless -- like it's just part of his job.

Ramon: Fashion plate? Who cares when you’re Tiger Woods! The effortless “golf chic” shirt keeps his lines clean, simple and refined while highlighting those champion guns. Less can be more when dressing your best. The key is to pay attention to the details: Fit is crucial (too loose or too tight is not an option), experiment with color (Tiger’s lucky red works for many skin tones) and always make sure your shoes are shined and well-maintained. Never wear white socks with dress shoes or black socks with shorts. And remember that a baseball cap is not a hairstyle -- c’mon guys, you’re big boys now!

Davis: It’s hard to look stylish in polo shirts and pleated pants, but Tiger always pulls it off. You can find polo shirts at any department or discount store. The secret to looking good in them is twofold: First, find one that fits your body type. (Don't wear one that’s two sizes too big or that gaps at the arm.) Second, take good care of it. If you want it to look crisp and tailored, air-dry it flat, making sure to smooth out all the wrinkles.